Saturday, January 5, 2019

My Home North of 53

Looking back now, I may have taken it all for granted. I sat there and relished in the roar of the wild; while boreal chickadees called, the constant churning of  headwaters of the Kanariktok spoke an unfamiliar language as the northern winds blew through the stunted black spruce. In the moment I respected, appreciated and allowed myself to become entranced by the lure of the Labrador wild; I felt the pull much greater than ever before. But as I sat on a couch, in a warm building in Nova Scotia, with entertainment and services on demand. 



There was a looming feeling that my life was missing something. There is a constant subconscious yearning that calls me; pulling at my shirt tail as I cross main street. The feeling is apparent when the wind carries south that cold Northern air.  It is the same bitter wind thats has nipped the nose of known and unknown men that attempted to explore the flat, rolling expanse that is the Labrador Peninsula. It carries with it the harsh memories from days gone by; of hardened men who broke in the seemingly never ending craggy landscape.


That wind sent me packing north again, like a salmon returning to their northern waters. Back to the town of Happy Valley-Goose Bay, Labrador; the central hub for all things industry east of the once powerful Churchill Falls. The town sits nestled at the head of a large inland sea known as Lake Melville, where the mighty Churchill meets the brackish waters of Goose Bay. I stepped off the plane to that familiar cold, dry air. I waited for my bags as my mind raced at the possibility of exploring Labrador by snow machine. The fruits of ice fishing on Lake Melville or heading in country to gawk at the white rolling Mealy Mountains. I instantly felt at ease, a fullness that can only be compared to seeing an old friend. I like to think that most people have that feeling, like a small bit Labrador continues on within everyone that visits. It is like nowhere I have ever experienced. 


In a sense it is serenity, dotted with small towns that disrupt the still, yet dynamic boreal landscape. Labrador is not just a region, a part of Newfoundland or another world class fishing destination. It is much, much more than that. The culture, history and people of Labrador, which was destined to be part of the french speaking Quebec; has been engrained in Canadian history. Labrador is not just the forgotten sibling of Newfoundland, but a functioning stand alone entity. 

The landscape and peoples are interconnected. While the love and importance of ensuring land stays pristine, it is of understanding that the land is a resource for wise use. Yet, in some ways the land and its resources are taken for granted. Fish and game is over-harvested and household garbage is dumped, polluting the land. It is upsetting to know that though myself and others appreciate the land and all that it offers, sometimes a moment isn't taken to fully appreciate what we experience, though it is not without effort.

 I find it hard to fully understand and take in exactly what being in the wilderness feels like, until I am far away in my home province. Maybe it is just me, but the urge to return is often overwhelming. It overcomes me, forcing me to take action; whether that be flying north, sauntering through Nova Scotian woods or sitting here allowing nostalgia to guide my mind. Something is to be said about being 100 miles from nowhere, and whether it is a sense of secludedness that I thrive on; or the fact that spending time in Labrador allows me to be with like minded people. In a world of opportunities, this place will always allow me to live the life I dream of. 
Photo: Chase and Aimee Bartee



Thanks to all that stopped by to read this blog. It's not much other than a few personal thoughts about a place that I fully embrace as my second home. I hope some of you connect with this post, if you have a similar feelings about Labrador or another special place feel free to comment!





3 comments:

  1. Well Chris this is the very best you have been willing to share! It is hard to discribe the deep feelings that comes with the knowledge of having explored Labrador and not understanding at the time it was about yourself! The cold spray of water as you cross a lake with your precious cargo backs to the wind and rain and in your face rekindles the spark that makes you feel alive! Thanks!

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    1. Much Thanks, Perry. I am sure you know the feeling all too well! I hope to see you next summer.

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  2. Beautifully written Chris! I feel the same way about Ilaluktutiak (Cambridge Bay), Nunavut. I love Nova Scotia, and am thrilled to once again be living here, but there are times when I virtually ache with missing life in the arctic. It truly became home for me. Your powerful words evokes that sense of longing to once again return to the land, and people that captured my heart. To once again experience rambling across the tundra in company with caribou and musk oxen, as it blooms with vibrant blossoms, the air alive with the songs of birds, geese, and swans — and yes, unfortunately mosquitos as well — under the midnight sun. Or laying back on the snow under a black sky, lit up with the dancing, crackling ribbons of the aurora borealis in the middle of the day. Celebrating the first, all-too-brief glimpse of the sun barely breaching the horizon after being hidden for weeks, knowing that in a few months, the darkness will once again be hidden. Ice-fishing on Grenier Lake; sliding down the snow cliffs at West Arm, jumping across ice-floes on the Northwest Passage, taking the ice-road to the mainland, kayaking at Starvation Cove, and climbing up Mount Pelly, where I once experienced a silence so astounding that the only thing I could hear was the blood rushing through my veins. And then there are the people....friends and acquaintances who always made me feel loved, and welcome, and truly part of the community. Times of shared laughter, dancing, feasting, games, celebrating, as well as sorrow, tears and grieving. They became my family, when I was far away from my own.
    Thank you for bringing that all back to me.

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